Pickled pig ears, tongue and braised knuckles. Bitter gourds blended into a rice wine cocktail or stir fried with pork and tofu for dinner. Green sea-grape caviar. No doubt about it, Okinawan food is a whole lot more exotic than mainland Japanese fare.
"Okinawan food is completely different from the rest of Japanese food it's completely different from Toyko food. We eat more vegetables and our main meat is pork, all of pork, like ears and head although we don't really eat the nose," reveals Asami Yoshida, supervisor of newly opened Okinawan restaurant EN Grill & Bar in Central.
Yet chances are, your encounters with flavours from this beach-ey resort town would have been slim in Hong Kong, where there are few Okinawan eateries. In fact, the numbers pale in comparison to the wealth of swish sushi joints in town. But in the last few months, we've noticed a few newcomers, as well as seasonal menus with Okinawan cooking as a main feature. You'll discover, as we did, that this genre isn't shy about mingling with other cultures, with influences from China to the US.
Here's a list Okinawan classics, fusions and just plain strange dishes, that inspire diners to venture beyond mainstream Japanese fare.
When America and Okinawa Collide on a Plate
Opened not long ago, EN Grill & Bar is perhaps the only venue around Central where Okinawan food is a regular star on the menu. Aside from all things porky, one particular dish is attracting attention in its own, especially with its own war-torn tale: Taco rice (HK$90).
When Okinawa was occupied by the US during WWII, there was a large number of American GIs residing there. With troops itching for food closer to home, especially Tex-Mex grub, it didn't take long for a culinary cross-pollination. Local chefs whipped up an adaptation of the Mexican taco: grounded beef marinated with soy, mirin and sugar, cooked in a tomato sauce, then ladled atop Japanese rice rather than tacos (which weren't available in Japan at the time). Topped with shredded lettuce and cheese, this fusion favourite gradually made its way under the Okinawa cuisine banner.
Unit "E," 4/F Ho Lee Commercial Bldg, 38-44 D'Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong. Tel: +852 3102-2255
Braving Bitter Gourds
Not the friendliest of vegetables, especially to a first timer, bittergourd or goya is prickly all over. In fact, the vegetable looks like it's going through its own wart epidemic. Rookie palettes will have a mouth-curling experience but not those tough Okinawans, who class bitter gourd as their beloved, national vegetable.
It was introduced by China during the Samurai era (circa 16th century), a time when Okinawa was chummier with the Chinese than the rest of Japan. That close kinship also translated into their food, such as goya and stir-fries, both of which are now ubiquitous on the Okinawan table. Try the classic goya chanpuri which is the bitter squash stir-fried with pork, eggs and tofu (HK$78), at Naha, a strictly Okinawan restaurant in Tai Koo Shing.
Naha's also offers a new seasonal menu based on jet-fresh gourds from Okinawa from now until August. Try six new dishes centered around the bitter vegetable. There's gourd stuffed with black pork and taro (HK$68), as well as nutty combinations such as being blended into an awamori (rice liquor) cocktail (HK$38) or grated and churned into a sorbet (from HK$68).
Naha, G1015 Yiu Sing Mansion, Stage 10, Taikoo Shing. Tel: +852 2186-6969
Good News for Caviar Lovers
Here's a caviar dish that won't dent your wallet, but don't expect it to be the familiar eat-with-blini-variety.
Umi-budo are grown from the ocean's seaweeds and feels like caviar although these sea grapes are far less fishy and salty. Drizzle with sweetened soy sauce than bite into this light and luminous green roe-like dish that bursts pleasantly in your mouth. Served at the folksy Okinawan restaurant, Chura, at a mere HK$58 per plate.
3/F, No.8 Russell Street, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2573-8333
A Shrine to the Swine
Pigs have been Public Enemy No.1 in the last month or so but the chubby animal is still numero uno in Okinawa, just like it is to Chinese communities around the world.
Okinawa natives gobble huge amounts in head-to-tail eating style, including ears, tongues, knuckles and trotters. Pigs raised in this prefecture are fed a diet of red sweet potato unique to the region, which is said to make the meat more marbled and all the sweeter.
Ku-Suya Rakeun serves up pork in all sort of ways - roasted, braised, fried and pickled, and since the owners are Okinawan natives, the dishes all ring close to home. Pork knuckles (HK$98) are lovely in soba (unlike mainland Japan, Okinawan soba is thick like udon and served in a pork broth). Or try the crunchy pickled ears sashimi. (HK$68)
Over at newly opened Ootoya, which isn't strictly Okinawan (their menu is a mish-mash of Japanese regions), you will also spot the occasional Okinawan gems such as grilled pork with sweetened red miso (HK$120).
Ku-Suya Rakeun, 12/Fl., Circle Tower, 26 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 3580-8858. Ootoya, 3/Fl., 8 Russell Street, Causeway Bay, tel: +852 2573 8333.
NOTE: Awamori is the region's drink of choice distilled from Japanese and Thai rice is a lot more pungent and bold than sake. Except Ootoya, all the eateries mentioned above serve this rice liquor, such as Ku-suya Rakuen, which houses over 100 bottles (or in traditional earthenware pots) from Okinawa.
