The stunning 28th-storey harbour views, antique Chinese furnishings, mood lighting and decorative birdcages makes Hutong a visual feast. Even the bathrooms are gorgeous.

In keeping with the spectacular setting, all the dishes at Hutong are artfully presented and a pleasure to the eye as well as the palate. Scallops tossed with pomelo segments feature thinly sliced seafood medallions that contrast sharply with the juicy, slightly bitter fruit. Tender grilled lamb skewers are dusted with a hearty helping of fennel seeds and have an enticingly smoky taste. The signature Wunan style boneless cod is a little bland, although the fish is fresh and generously served under a cloud of crisp yellow beans. The dan dan noodles are excellent, likewise the spicy minced pork with string beans, two staples of northern China that Hutong manages to grant its own distinctive stamp. The noodles are firm, with a rich, peanuty broth distinguished by a touch of vinegar. The beans are crunchy and a bit charred, and savoury minced pork proves to be an excellent companion. Crispy apple rolls are divine, a cross between apple pie and spring rolls. With a dust of icing sugar and a side of lotus root chips, these are the perfect finish to a splendid meal.

Wines favour French and Italian labels, while Chinese liquor choices are very creative.

Wait staff at Hutong are attentive and pleasant.

The gorgeous setting and beautiful food come with a price tag of about $650 per person.