A major hot spot when it opened in the mid-1990’s, the décor at Felix remains much the same, with the same Philippe Starck chair covers and furnishing. A long marble bar takes centre stage with a stunning backdrop of the Hong Kong harbour visible from the wall-to-ceiling windows. The clientele ranges from families and couples plus well-dressed tourists.

For years, Felix was known for its grand and swanky atmosphere, fantastic drinks and fine food. Sadly, that reputation has waned as some of the food underwhelms. The signature dish of foie gras with poached pear, pink peppercorn and vanilla, is served two ways and both are equally disappointing. The warm side of the plate has a piece of overcooked pan-fried foie gras, covered in a foam that doesn’t do much other than make the toast beneath soggy. On the cold side, a piece of foie gras is wrapped in poached pear: sadly, the high quality of the liver is overwhelmed by the taste of vanilla in the pear, making the entire cold side taste like cough syrup. Another appetiser, the one-side seared beef with quail egg and caper remoulade, could have done with a bit more acid but is overall more enjoyable. The mains are marginally better: the roasted black cod with creamed cabbage and bacon is over-salted and one-note while the duo of wagyu is an excellent piece of strip loin paired with a dry braised beef cheek. The Chocolate Chocolate Chocolate dessert is easily the highlight of the evening, featuring a delicious mini hot chocolate, orange chocolate tart and a fantastic chocolate ice cream.

Felix feels more like a bar than a restaurant, so it is fitting that the drinks list is huge. Champagnes alone take up four pages of the wine menu while the by the glass range is accessibly priced (HK$90-HK$188). Wine and champagne in half-bottle and magnums are also available.

The service is discreet if a little slow with long wait times between courses.

Dinner for two should cost around HK$2,100.