As Wynn Macau's most ambitious effort, the Golden Flower flaunts opulence at every corner as loud as possible. The entrance leads to a room with all four walls exhibiting both modern and antique collection of Chinese vases, teapots and crafts from floor to ceiling. The dining room is equally crowded with posh lanterns hung over seatings, painstakingly hand-tiled mosaics of blooms on floors and doors, all in China's patriotic and much-loved colours such as red, yellow and gold. The impression of Chinese-style decadence is aggressive and even borders on obscene; although fitting in the casino's setting, it could have done with a more graceful "less is more" approach.

Food-wise the menu is centred on Tan cuisine, the food for the aristocratic in the Qing Dynasty that is rarely savoured around the world available in very few restaurants in Beijing, until now. The casino invested monumental amounts of money and time (apparently two years) to curate a dream team of established chefs trained in preparing this niche cuisine, which was conceived by high-ranking official Tan Zong-jun in that era. And it was well worth the investment, as it brought in executive chef Liu Guo-zhu, who has prepared for countless officials and icons worldwide (Deng Xiao-ping and US Secretary of State Henry Kissinger are examples). He's fully adept in the demanding preparations of this boutique cuisine best described as a fusion of Cantonese cooking (especially long-braising techniques) with provincial northern Chinese influences, and using the finest ingredients around. The complex compositions of such dishes are indisputable and admirably done, especially braised Jinshan shark's fin in supreme chicken broth (MOP1,280) with a generous amount of fin immersed in an intensely rich, almost buttery soup, which is a reduction of duck, chicken and pork broth. Long-cooking expertise is also well highlighted in the braised sea cucumber, in a similar compilation of meat broths but with a stronger caramelised form, also topped with Shangdong leeks (MOP369). Garoupa fillet bisque (MOP98) is also fresh and unusually done as most Chinese fish soups are rarely served with a side of vinegar. Coupled with white peppered broth, the essence of the fish soup is magnified, and just like the rest of the dishes, diners sense that Chinese cuisine advanced to a whole new level.

With the drinks-list, focus is on tea rather than wine with an extensive tea menu and an expert at hand to navigate what brews best suit your meal. The in-house tea is an amalgamation of oolong, chrysanthemum, magnolia and osmanthas flowers that's delightfully fragrant. For more premium brews, go for the Pu-Er, one of the strong vintage selections aged from 12 to 25 or even 65 years of age that is available.

Golden Flower boasts plenty of staff from the large team in the kitchen to the helpful waiters on the floor. Service is efficient and waiters are knowledgeable of what's on the food and tea menu. So across all levels, the restaurant has done a superb job in informing diners of the lesser-known genre also notably because the team's telling pride channel forward its heritage and culture. In the midst of discovering Tan cooking, you can't help thinking how there is way more to Chinese cuisine than initially thought.

A memorable meal per person is approximately MOP1,000- MOP1,500 per person.